Take a breath & seize it, seize the surroundings, the air, the smells, the beauty of it all, of being right here.
Sometimes I forget, sometimes I'm ashamed because I forget how fucking lucky I am. Somedays I want to smack myself in the head and say "Hey ! Stop moping about shit and open your eyes, you don't get another experience like this !"
I do love it here, so, so much. I love waking up in the morning and go and have a served breakfast and after go and have a surf check from the bridge and then get in a wetsuit and go for a surf, whatever the conditions are, because even if it's kind of shit waves, it's always great to get out there, even just for a paddle, I love how the ocean makes you feel. When you get out in the water everything else just goes away, it's you, the waves & your board, there is nothing better.
